Most smoke units indicate how many drops of fluid to use. I have tested 3 smoke fluids with a syringe and found that they are 37-39 drops per ml / cc. (Aristo, ProtoSmoke, TAS) I used an Accucraft 5 ml syringe (#14224) , but they are all really the same, the droplet size is a function of the surface tension of the fluid.
I recommend you count out your droplets from your smoke bottle and get your drop/ml down and then just use a syringe.
There are many different smoke units from Aristo, from the simple heater type that is used in the cabooses to the latest style, called the "Aristo Prime Mover" smoke unit with electronics and a fan.
CLICK HERE for a specific page on all the Aristo units under Aristo Motive power.
For adding to other locos and purposed of comparison, only consider the "Prime Mover" one, with the fan built in.
When these work, they put out a nice quantity of smoke, and have a reasonable run time. Figure on 20 minutes on a filling.
Do not overfill, even though the reservoir can handle 4.5 milliliter, the design allows fluid to slop or condense onto the circuit board, and it attacks the electrolytic caps, swelling the rubber ends and popping them off the circuit board. This is one cause of failure. There is no way to keep fluid from condensing on the circuit board, since the circuitry is in the chamber with the fan, and that chamber is connected to the fluid chamber.
They are very inconsistent and many will only run for a few minutes before shutting off. Just keep returning them to Aristo until you get a good one. (No malice intended here, check the Aristo forum about the ratio of good to bad units).
I don't know much about it, but the output looks fantastic. It draws 2 amps at 12 volts though!
The dimensions on the web site are not correct, the dimensions from an actual owner are: about 2 inches on each side and 1.5 inches tall, but the fan adds another 1.5 inches, so the entire unit is 2 inches wide, 3.5 inches long and 1.5 inches tall.
this will be a tough fit in most locos. You might consider putting it in the tender and then running a hose to the front of the loco.
Trains America Studios (TAS) unit:
This company made one of the nicest aftermarket units, and they have 2 modes, a diesel mode, where the fan speed increases with speed, and a "puff 'n chuff" mode, where you can pulse the fan to match the chuffs, usually tie to the chuff switch. Unfortunately, in 2009, they were bought by Lionel, and then deep sixed. You will find these units in USAT locos sometimes, like the Big Boy, the Hudson, etc. (not in the normal line of plastic bodied diesels). Too bad.
Here is a top view:
The three pin plug next to the the aluminum tank/reservoir is the input. The leftmost wire, furthest from the tank is the "chuff" input, grounding it makes the fan go full speed.
The middle wire is the ground, and the wire on the far right, nearest to the tank is positive.
DO NOT CONNECT BACKWARDS!
Tips:
Many units are supplied with a full wave bridge wired to the ground and plus leads to avoid this problem.
The "DCC" versions may have different PIC code (that is the program in the microprocessor) and a "larger value" heating element. This note was from Mike Regan at TAStudios.
I did not measure the current draw of the "chuff" input, it's low current. Isolate from other leads if you are connecting more than one thing to your locmotive cam/reed switch.
Notice the jumper just to the left. It is in the "steam loco" position, the other position is the diesel position.(Steam closest to the reservoir).
They made AC and DC versions. The internal circuitry is different. The AC ones use a Triac to turn the heating element on and off, the DC versions use a transistor. So beware if you come upon a used on, it could be an AC version, which will not operate properly on DC.
The unit can draw up to about 1.8 amps before it goes into overload protection.
DO NOT connect the chuff input to positive DC, it will destroy the unit (wow, but this info directly from TAS)
Here's a TAS installation in an Aristo mallet by R.J. DeBerg:
I received mine recently, and will use the "puff 'n chuff" feature on my AML K4, which has a chuff cam. The model I got is the TAS-2004.
When you order a DC unit, you need to tell them what operating voltage you use. I could not get them to give me a straight answer, but I think they set a regulator or dropping resistor somewhere. The DC unit comes with a full wave bridge rectifier (so the unit can be connected to the rails irrespective of polarity), so you can use them on DCC also.
It is a good looking unit, with the circuitry isolated from the smoke fluid. The fluid reservoir and the smoke chamber are in one metal casting, which is sealed to the circuit board.
They alsohave a TAS-1022 "Puff N Chuff" synchronized smoke upgrade. It is a control for a fan driven unit to pulse the fan in time with the chuff switch. It also includes a 5 volt power board (I assume that is needed to drive the logic circuitry) in addition to the Puff N Chuff board. I will have to try this out on the MTH fan when I try the MTH unit.
USA Trains smoke units:
Again, like Aristo, there have been several variations. The early ones were a small square unit, very thin, and did not work well. The newer ones have a fan and a circuit board that controls the motor and the heater. I have found these to be very reliable. The quantity of smoke is not great, but they work and come stock.
MTH smoke units:
Many people are trying these in customizing, but they are really large: (the MTH is on top, the TAS below).
The MTH unit above measures about 3" long x 1-3/8" wide x 1-3/4" tall (thanks for the pictures and measurements Chuck!)
I'm going to get one to try it out. Looks as though the motor is directly connected to the leads, so will have to make some kind of switching system for the motor.
Massoth now has a presence in the US. The are/were a major OEM supplier for LGB.
The make a "Pulsed Smoke Generator", in 5v (8412101) and 19v (8412201) versions. They draw 500-650 ma and 120-150 ma respectively.
I don't have any experience with them, but I'm sure they make nice smoke. Some of the features are a "pulse input" (which we would call a chuff input) that will produce 1 or 2 chuffs per pulse, and also a "diesel" mode.
When connected to a Massoth decoder, it will modulate the smoke output based on engine load (looks to be a SUSI interface).
It has overload and dry-run protection. They specify 30 minutes of operation per filling nominal.
Apparently by setting a DCC CV, you can compensate for track voltages over 19 volts.
The problem comes with how to connect it. The manual makes it clear on power, but the other connections use standard cables with no description other than "LGB Pluse Generator cable" with 3 wires.
You can figure out how to connect the pulse input, sort of, but then it tells you to set some CV's but it does not say why or what they do...
For technical support contact: Massoth Electronics USA 6585 Remington Dr. Suite 200 Cumming, GA 30040 Hotline hours USA: 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. EST Mo thru Fr Ph. 770-886-6670 Fax 770-889-6837
