Home Security - camerasThis page under construction.OverviewI've long used simple DVRs with analog cameras, and they have extended this technology to 4k cameras, but it's still analog, and there are other limitations. I've bought simple 8 camera systems, but many of the older ones need a browser with and ActiveX plugin, and that went the way of the Dodo.I've got a Lorex system which is pretty nice, but i want to go beyond motion detection, to image recognition. I'd also like an NVR (Network Video Recorder), really a dumb name, uses Ethernet based cameras called "IP cameras", another dumb terminology. A lot of advantages to using Ethernet to connect cameras as opposed to the old analog coax wire.A brief word on wireless camerasI'm going to give very little attention to wireless cameras. It's more work for most people to get a wired connection between the recorder and the camera, but it's more wireless issues, and wireless signals can be jammed, etc.To me, the real advantages of a wireless camera would be:smallportable without wireseasy to placeObviously being portable without wires means self-contained power. Since I do motion detection at night, and sometimes continuous recording, self powered makes no sense, unless it has a big battery, and a big solar panel, and now how the heck is it portable? How is it easy to mount in different places?My opinion is that these are pretty much a joke, and I can get wires pretty much wherever I want, so why wireless? Also hardwired cameras are cheaper, easier to set up, etc.So I can go to the extra effort to hook up a wire that has power and signal.Exploring the NVR "world"Again, I want to concentrate on the future, so I will work with NVRs that use Ethernet, and POE (Power Over Ethernet). This gives you a cable length of 300 feet (analog is typically 60) and you can add "repeaters" to extend that as much as you need.The NVR will typically have RJ45 jacks (look like overgrown telephone jacks) and will use "IP" cameras (Internet Protocol) and POE.I started looking into the NVR's offered by Costco. As per usual Costco practice, last year's model at a great price. Mostly Lorex, good stuff, but a bit too high priced, and also have goofy offerings like 16 channel, but 8 wired cameras and 8 more wireless. Also Lorex tries to force you into buying their Lorex does not want to accept any old IP cameras, and this is just wrong, your system should accept almost any IP camera.A neighbor was doing a bit of research, and came up with Reolink, and researching more, this is an affordable supplier of NVRs and will accept several manufactures' cameras.https://reolink.com/ they seem to have person/object detection, but it might be in the camera. i need to investigate further.While looking into this, I was thinking, someone must make a software product, and I remembered at a CES show, someone made a Windows package that supported tons of cameras. Digging a bit more, I found Blue Iris, and some very interesting add ons to enhance its features.Do it yourself NVRSo right now I am investigating the Blue Iris software that keeps coming up on a bunch of searches and reviews. https://blueirissoftware.com/What was particularly interesting is how it supports many cameras, and is very flexible.It has PC, Android, and iPhone access, and has the listen and talk features, email alerts, You can run it on a windows machine of moderate ilk.I'm figuring on 4k resolution, which is also about 12 Megapixels. (be sure when looking at cameras you do not confuse resolution with megapixels) and IP CamerasNotes: Look at Annke, the C800 4k turret, https://www.annke.com/products/c800 gentle pumpkindeepstack –ai - installer with dockerhttps://store.ipcamtalk.com/shop/blue-iris-software/https://reolink.com/blog/blue-iris-ip-security-cameras/
Firman generator / home transfer panel Why is this under computer stuff? Because the most finicky items for a home generator seems to be the UPS units powering my critical computers. Firman generator notes:Bought from Costco, $200 off sale comes up every so often.Tri fuel, which was perfect to connect my NG quick release hoses that normally power my patio heaters. When there is a power failure, the NG supply is normally not interrupted, where gas stations need electricity to pump gas, and most generators only run 6-8 hours on any significant load Note: the manual says the engine needs 1200 cc of oil, and came with a quart (946) but that amount of oil overfilled it. So fill it carefully, then run and the check. I think there are some nooks that fill only after the engine runs. When you check the oil you do NOT screw the dipstick all the way in, but just press it to the threads. The manual tells you nothing, but the illustration clearly shows the dipstick NOT screwed in when checking. The Firman site confirms this also, there is a youtube. There is a metal cord manager, meant to hold the adapter with the 110v twist lock with the quad outlet on the end. Cannot figure out where it goes, looks like it goes on the long side of the generator on the side opposite to the control panel, but to me, it was just another thing to vibrate and rattle during operation, so I left it off.To that end, I peeled all the stupid instructional and warning labels from the tank, they just will go bad and collect dirt. Looks better too.
Z-Uno - Arduino based z-wave interfaceOverviewThis is a small Arduino-based board that has up to 22 GPIOs. I am trying to convert to Z-Wave from X10, and I have all my sprinklers on an X10 relay board, 16 circuits. This and a small relay boardInstallingget Arduino ide 1.6.5 get the getting started with z-uno: https://z-uno.z-wave.me/install follow the installation directions, but you will need to get the previous version 1.6.5 from the site.when running the IDE be sure to point to the Z-uno board... Problems with homeseer
Zniffer - Z-Wave sniffer This is a Z-Wave sniffer. I needed one since I was using HomeSeer and the Z-Uno and of course when certain things did not work, each "camp" laid blame to the other. This is basically a USB Z-Wave dongle put into promiscuous mode and software to capture packets. This link is a good overview of how to get started:https://labs.bishopfox.com/tech-blog/set-up-zniffer-for-z-waveIt tells you what model USB dongle to get, I bought mine from Digikey for about $30, it has the Silicon Labs Z-Wave chip.Scroll to the bottom right of the page:Where you can download what you need:The Z-wave programmerthe Z-wave sniffer Next it gives you a link to get the SDK:https://www.silabs.com/development-tools/wireless/z-wave/embedded-development-kitThe site is not organized the same anymore... You click on the "explore Z-Wave SDK, then I downloaded the Z-Wave SDK, then a bit further down the same page, there are tools, clicking "more info about tools", you can then get to the controller sdk... then scrolling down you will find a "development tools" that mentions Zniffer into that you find You need to make an account, it is free, I made one under my business, but it does not matter.
New owner checklist:Overview:This is a great checklist derived mainly from the wonderful people at Sweet Heaven Ragdolls. This is a list of things for your kitten/cat before it comes home.I'm listing the items and, and identifying some of the brands here too. After having Hudson for a year, I've added some comments.Grooming items:Grooming the coatThere is the grooming to get rid of things in the coat, to remove tangles and matting, and for appearance. You will use different things for each. On metal combs, the closer the teeth on the comb, the better. Do not get the colored metal combs as the color wears off on the cat.slicker brush - smooths and arranges the top hairs, only use when drycomb to remove matsthe English made (but stamped Belgium) Greyhound is famous, we have the 187 http://greyhoundcomb.com/about.html I also found a very similar comb for much less on Amazon, and the tines are larger and more rounded, and this works even betterTeethTooth brush and paste - From what I have found out, the most common ailment is bad teeth. Regular brushing or inspection is good, so far we are having the vet do it, but will see if kitty will go along with it.We are now brushing Hudson's teeth, and the tooth paste is chicken flavored, that helps a lot.NailsCat nail clippers - we found ones in "sizes" with a small hole you put the nail into, much easier than regular clippers where the nail can slide out. Also picking the right size makes it much harder to cut too short. There are some motorized nail "files" that might be nice, the advantage is no sharp edges, and it should be easier on the cat. I have an older small Dremel tool that has a low speed, will try that.A year later we trim his nails no less often than 2 weeks, and have not tried the sanding drum to smooth the nails, they sharpen up fast enough by kitty scratching.BathingBathing your car: This depends on how well the cat cleans itself. When bathing, be sure to get all the shampoo/soap out.Connie uses use Dawn dish washing Liquid, but she's probably better than us at keeping the soap out of the cat's eyes. Johnsons baby shampoo is ok for cats, but there are some tear free ones that are better in my opinion.We have used one I found at a cat show, by Quadruped: www.quadrupedpetcare.com . After talking to the owner and seeing what was in it, we bought it and are very happy with it. We are using the whitnner brightener color enhancing tearless formula. Truthfully, besides doing a great job of cleaning, and not irritating kitty, he actually looks whiter and brighter, no kidding!.Also, get a non slip mat for the sink or tub where you wash kitty, I found a good "solid" one at Bed Bath & Beyond, many are an open grid, where kitty's claws might get caught.Use a faucet with separate spray head - we are using the laundry sink, nice and deep, and small so you are not chasing kitty, or bending over on your kneesOther groomingBe sure to inspect around the eyes for infections, be careful when wiping near them. We use nice soft cosmetic sponges wetted with warm water. Q-Tips might poke kitty's eyes if he moves.Cleaning ears. Be careful to not go inside deep in the ears as you can damage the ears if you use Q-Tips. A better idea is some of the foaming cleaners for ears that can wash out.Kitty's butt: Use unscented baby wipes - for near eyes and butt. On ragdolls, you might trim the fur a bit shorter.FurniturePosts: Connie recommends 1-2 cat posts to keep the cat busy and use their claws on. We do not want them to use the furniture.I have a page dedicated to cat furniture: Cat furniture, scratching posts, etc.Scratching postsWe've decided mostly on the Purrfect Post product line, very nice selection and look much more finished than other cat furniture. We started out with 3 different types from Purrfect Post, see the link above. Other scratching thingsI like the Purrfect Post "the purrfect angle", a small angled scratcher with replacement sisal or cardboard padsPetfusion makes cardboard based scratchers, we got the petfusion scratcher/lounge, and kitty loves it.Cat treesWow, there are a ton of these.Right now, we prefer to keep kitty more at our level, so we don't really want one in our living areas.Beds:Found a nice one from urban paw: http://www.urbanpawpet.com/ many different types, the cool one is a "hut" which can also be collapsed to a bed.We also - we bought one from www.hugsnpurrs.comBought several of these from Petco:And one of these: We have plenty now!!!Litter boxConnie is a breeder, so she just uses storage boxes as they are so much cheaper but you can buy what you like. We use Swheat Scoop litter. Please do not use any clay litter as this can block the intestines.It is recommended to have 2 if you have a two story house, one upstairs one downstairs.Even though the wife assured me she would take complete care of the cat, I decided to get an automated litter box. ;-)We bought 2 of the nicest automated litter boxes, See the page on the Cat Genie They work great!Diet / Feeding:Milk:This is NOT recommend for your cat. Milk can cause digestive problems.Water:Cool clean water is essential for cats. There are nice ceramic bowls for this. Researching this, the ceramic bowls seem to keep the water cooler. Stainless is nice, does not keep the water as cool,and they are light and move around unless weighted.We will have several water dishes around the house, but a good water fountain seems to be a good idea, the moving water seems to encourage the cat to drink.We purchased a Drinkwell "Avalon" fountain by Petsafe, all ceramic. The stainless steel and the ceramic ones are preferred in that they can be cleaned better than plastic. This particular model is round, no corners, ceramic, and should be easiest to clean, fine in dishwasher. It is a nice design, easy to assemble, a minimum of parts. It has a coarse foam filter for hair and stuff and a carbon filter for filtration/smells.Feeding Bowls:Connie says: "Please use crock bowls, ceramic bowls or stainless steel but please do not use plastic bowls. Some cats are allergic to plastic." I have also found in my research that the plastic cannot always be gotten completely clean, and some plastic is a bit porous.We found these very nice bowls via Connie, http://www.charliescritters.com/ very nice, heavy, with a non-skid backing. Charlie is great! Look at the beehive water bowls, which keep the cat's face clean and dry, nice concept!The wet food bowls have an "indented lip" which helps contain the food, and allows a nice low profile bowl so that there's no "whisker stress" that is found in deep dish bowls: They have so many sizes and types, you are bound to find something perfect for your cat! http://www.catfooddispensersreviews.com/ Food:Many people feed different diets of food. The first thing is at least continue what your breeder recommends, or what your cat has been eating.Our breeder only feeds wet can food, she used Blue Wilderness duck and pea, turkey, chicken or liver. She fed no beef or fish. She states that beef is hard on their digestive system. She was ok with Fancy Feast, Friskies Pate too.An important note: all dry food has a lot less moisture, so if you feed all or mostly dry food, make sure kitty drinks a lot of water.See the section: Food for your cat Treats:Connie uses Halo dry chicken treats. She warns against "Greenies"I found that the Halo treats come in small crunchy pieces in a bag, or freeze-dried in a square plastic jar. The freeze dried chicken is also available in a larger bag.I bought the chicken and a liver one, kitty loves them. I tried some cheaper brands, even ones that stated "pure chicken, nothing else" and kitty got the runs.Health concerns/tipsSupplementsViralys or L-Lysine. Connie recommends this for new kittens or when a cat is stressed. This is a supplement that helps builds a stronger immunity system. Viralys you can get at the vet. office and L-Lysine you can get at a health store (250 milligrams twice a day=500 per day) This is not required to do. This is something that I always do.I did a lot of research, and recent studies seem to show that L-Lysine has no effect on protecting your cat from Feline Herpesvirus: Check this article and Check this studyI'm going to hold off and research some more before trying this.Fleas:Advantage or Revolution. Please do not use Bio Spot, Frontline or any Hartz products. Cat-proofing the house:There are various ways you can keep kitty safe and also keep your house from being destroyed.Clearly encouraging kitty with lots of places to scratch, and leaving temptations out of their reach should be done.You can also put up barriers, and there are items that discourage kitty from touching or climbing on furniture.See the separate page on: Cat Proofing Your house Toys:Connie says: "I am VERY Picky on the toys. I do not buy any toys with moveable eyes, pom-poms ribbons or feathers. String toys are bonding toys and should never be left lying around. These items can seriously harm your cat. I like handmade stuffed toys. I really love baby toys. Teaser toys are another bonding toy that I put away in a drawer when I am not playing with the cat." CatAmazing:A cardboard box with shapes inside, you drop treats inside and the cat has to figure out how to get them out, there are 3 levels of difficulty. Very nice and inexpensiveI bought ours directly from their site with paypal, no tax no shipping, $13 Suggestions on assembling:pre fold all parts, especially the left and right box sides, where there are 2 folds 1/4" from each other, the box will fold nice and square if you do this.once the basic box is done, fold the insert and test place it to see where stuff lines up.Now put 3 pieces of double stick tape on the bottom of the insert, the 3 flat places that sit on the bottom of the box, left to right is green, red, and yellow.Now, holding the red and green up away from the box, seat the yellow end in the box, getting it nicely in the corner (there is a yellow flap that goes up, I'm talking the yellow part that goes flat on the bottom).Now, again holding the middle red part up in the air, lower the left hand green part and get it right into left side.Now you can "center" the middle red part, centering the two "peaks" with the 2 holes on the side facing you, slowly lowering it home.You can also bend the vertical yellow part away from the side and add another bit of double stick to hold it tightly to the right sideDoing this keeps the center insert from moving or coming loose. We also bought the Catit Senses, a series of interlocking tunnels that can be arranged various ways, and a ball trapped inside. I've seen a number of videos and the cats seem to have fun batting the ball around. Some tunnels are flat, some have hills and valleys. I believe there is also a motion sensitive ball with a flashing LED, looking for that. Bought from Drs Foster and Smith, a good site. Laser pointerThere are a lot of these, if you expect to use it a lot, look for the ones that use 2 AAA batteries, not the "hearing aid" batteries.I got a nice one for $10, and kitty loves to chase the beam.Carriers / strollersYou need something to transport kitty in a car, like to the vet. We read that getting a carrier that has not only an end door, but can open from the top. Since you are normally only using this when going to the vet, your cat may be a bit panicked so the top opening allows you to reach in gently rather that open the door at the end an a gigantic hand attacks your kitty to yank him out.We have this Doskocil Two-door top loading carrier, the medium size... just right and got it at Drs Foster and Smith.I also bought a mat for the inside - for carrier above, we needed an 11" x 18" mat, I got this one from Petsmart, made by Top Paw, called the "Tuff Kennel Pad" If you travel, you need an approved style carrier, I would recommend Sherpa, there's even a site tot print up the approval certificate for your airline: We still might want a stroller that has a soft carrier built into it: MiscCatnip - although I have heard not all cats react to catnip, and usually kittens under 3 months do not react. They can appreciate honeysuckle though. Reactions to catnip can vary, from mild to wild. Nice article here on catnipCat grass - we are going to try to grow our own, seems this might help with hairballs also. Houseplants:Connie says: "We do not recommend any houseplants and we do not have any in our home. So many plants are toxic. Holiday plants are really toxic and can kill your kitty. We keep our plants on the back porch or front porch for neighbors to enjoy."My wife and I have lots of houseplants, but most are way out of kitty's reach, and we have researched them carefully so no toxic ones are in the house. Note that the biggest danger seems to be from plant pollen and flowering. The pollen will get in the air.. Housekeeping items:Get a vetfind a good place to board your cat if you are away https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/holiday-pet-hotel-encinitas?select_biz_video=6uU1oL9kvZySNF_BBgFw4A&utm_campaign=www_video_share_popup&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_source=(direct)