AML GP60 second release

Overview:

Hoo boy! Lots to talk about, mostly assembly and design. While this page is being built, it will be in goofy order. Basically a product with a complex and non-standard electrical interface with NO DOCUMENTATION WHATSOEVER. Also several design issues in the final product, QA and assembly issues.

Issue: missing or broken parts

So my buddy RJ just got one (Jan 2024) and the instruction plate under the dynamic brake blister is missing:

This is what you should see:

This is what RJ found in his:

Broken/missing detail parts:

• missing number board - reported by Ted
• missing brake hose assembly - reported by RJ
• broken brake hose assembly - reported by Ted
• broken underbody piping - reported by RJ
• missing switch plate (as above) - reported by RJ
• missing pamphlet with exploded diagrams - reported by RJ
• broken safety chain between end stanchions
• HUGE Some locos wired wrong, shorting the rails together (because trucks are identical, and they are in reversed direction, just like USAT diesels, the track and motor wires must be wired opposite between the 2 trucks. For a short time at the factory, apparently the main electronic tech who does the wiring was sick, and the temporary guy did not wire them right. Now, this loco could NEVER be test run on a piece of track, with the left rail shorted to the right rail, so not a great QA standard in the factory.

Problem: poor or defective assembly

Back to the same pictures, this is how the top switch board should look when the trim plate is removed:

but see RJ's unit:

See a problem?

• missing metal plate with legend
• Board is mounted 180 degrees wrong
• Battery charge plug obstructed
• Shell not routed out to clear battery charge plug

A sharp observer will see that the extra clearance for the charge socket was routed with a mill, seeing the radiused corners on Ted's loco.

Another example is that the speedometer drive cable should be coming from the front left truck sideframe. Ted's was on the right rear on one loco, correct on the other loco (he has 2 SP units).

Issue, no documentation on electrical interface

This is a HUGE problem, and frankly inexcusable.

The main motherboard is designed to ONLY support an ESU Loksound 5 XL decoder.

This is foolish, since ESU is a minor player in the USA, has limited sound files, and most documentation is in German.

In any case, the main board has 4 SIP socket strips, and there is NO WAY to attach any other decoder.

There is a dummy plug that goes into the socket:

The dummy plug can control some of the lights and have them off, or on in forwards or on in reverse. There is no ditch light automatic function or blinking

 Disassembly

Starting tips:

Get a set of tools that VERY CLOSELY fit the Philips screws, they are in very tightly and you can easily strip the heads.

remove the blister on the top of the loco, mine was a tight fit, so pull up on the sides but be careful, over-gripping will put force on the shell, not the blister. My long extension was also sticky.

the metal cover plate over the switches was not secured, lift that out.

turn the loco over, taking care to NOT rest it on the horns on the cab.

to remove the fuel tank: (NOT needed to remove shell)

• remove the 4 screws for the fuel tank, they are in way tight, note the fuel filler faces forwards.
• when removing the tank, note the 2 air compressor lines that enter the tank, they are not connected, they just fit through slots in the end of the tank, lift straight up.

to remove the shell:

• remove the 4 screws on the underside at about the 4 corners of the trucks
• do not remove the screws in the plates at the very ends of the loco
• remove the 4 screws that secure the left and right walls of the cab
• be SURE to disconnect the handrails at 4 locations on the cab, pop them out of the cab gently
• be SURE to have enough room to lift the shell off the loco on your workspace, have at least a nice thick terry towel. The wires are SHORT between the 2 parts, you will have to lift the shell off and best to lay the loco on it's side, the chassis will need to be on it's side because of the shortness of the wires
• when you finally have it apart, you can note which wires go where, and also that the ditch lights have no disconect.

to get into the cab:

the cab floor (which includes the seats and the control stand and the exterior battery boxes, slides in and out of the long hood

there are 4 tabs holding it in place: the 2 tabs on the sides need to be pushed outwards, away from the centerline. The front and rear tabs need to be pushed inwards, towards the center of the cab. (who designs this way?). Use a small fine blade screwdriver and pull up on the cab floor while releasing the tabs bit by bit.

Once the cab floor is off, the short nose can slide out.