Bachmann Tips from "Loco Bill"

Note: this page is under construction, and is constantly being updated. Check back often. You can also email me to point out any great threads by Bill that should be in this index:

This will  be the entry point for archived posts and information from "Loco Bill" Canelos.

In 2022, the extensive user forum for Bachmann Large scale just went away, no warning, and in the intervening months no comment whatsoever from Bachmann.

I reached out to Bill in the new year 2023 and asked if he would support presenting and archving his wealth of knowledge here.

The first threat/topic that will be put here is the:

BIG HAULER SET & RC set INSTRUCTIONS. 4-6-0 REPAIR Tips & more! 6/9/2021 Update

Oh No!,  You have unpacked your Big Hauler set or Radio controlled set and can't find the instructions!!!  

Well here is the link to the Big Hauler Set instructions, for sets made from 2000 and later.  Most of the instructions are useful for earlier sets as well.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/Big_Hauler_Instructions.pdf     This will download a .pdf file.  Go to your download files and click on the download to open it!

So you have a Radio Controlled Big Hauler Set or locomotive and there are no instructions.  Well here they are :

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,32620.0.html

REPAIR TIPS
If you are having a problem with your Big Hauler or Anniversary 4-6-0 Locomotive, check out the link below. Sound troubleshooting is now included as well:
: http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,30394.msg224039.html#msg224039

Still have questions or problems, be sure to ask them as a forum item.

Have Fun!

Loco Bill

I've tried to pull together all the Bachmann support links and have them posted here:

http://tjstrains.com/1118/features-and-maintenance-bachmann-locomotives/

Best,
TJ Lee

Hi All,

I just posted the most comprehensive set of instructions and tips on the Bachmann Battery Powered Radio controlled sets produced from 1988 to 1993.

They can be found here:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,32620.0.html

Enjoy.

Loco Bill

« on: June 27, 2015, 09:38:03 PM »

Updated May 15 2020 Added changes in chassis prices and other small changes. Also Bachmann online store and repair services and parts store are open for orders

Hi Fellow Large Scale Bachmann Forum Friends,
Let me start by saying that our beloved Big Hauler(Standard Line) 4-6-0 Locomotive with the latest most reliable Version 5 chassis has been produced for almost 20 years now. This is an amazing run for any model locomotive.  It is and remains a great locomotive.  These Version 5 chassis have been largely trouble free, but if you have one of those bought when they came out in 2000 and run it a lot it is very likely getting long in the tooth and may need repairs due to normal wear and tear.  Wear on the wheels, electric wipers, valve gears and motor along with high heat, rain snow and sleet, are all likely to contribute to a need for repairs. Nothing lasts forever!!   Much of what I say below also applies to the Anniversary (Annie) 4-6-0 as well. All information is Copyright 1990, thru 2020 by Bill Canelos All rights reserved.

REPAIR OPTIONS:

The first being send it in to the Bachmann service department for repairs after first contacting them to see your options.  If you do this for your Big Hauler 4-6-0 the cost of the repair is currently $110.00(check for current price)  You pay shipping to Bachmann and Bachmann pays shipping back.  In most cases they will install a brand new chassis or at their discretion "may" send you a complete new locomotive, it will have the latest Version 5 chassis.  This is not always the best option if you have installed aftermarket sound or converted your locomotive to radio control and battery power. That is why it is critical to call them first.  If you send in a Version 6 Anniversary 4-6-0 for repair you will get it back with a Version 5 chassis.  Bachmann does not have version 6 replacement parts or chassis at this time.

The second option is to replace the entire chassis and running gear by purchasing one from the Bachmann Online Store and and remove and replace your old chassis yourself.  The cost for a complete replacement chassis is currently $69.99 and 79.99(check for current price) plus shipping.  This method is very desirable if your locomotive tender is loaded with sound and radio control goodies and is not stock.   This is also strongly recommended because all the wheels running gear, gear train and motor are all new and completely assembled giving you for all intents and purposes a brand new locomotive from the motor and gearbox down.  This replacement is not very difficult if you take it slow and note how you took it apart.  I usually photograph things as I take them apart, putting the little screws and parts in sandwich bags labeling and numbering them as I as I go. This makes it easier when you put it back together.  An Anniversary 4-6-0 chassis currently sells for $79.95. The Anniversary 4-6-0 chassis with the metal siderods makes for a very nice update to your Big Hauler 4-6-0, and usually goes back together with minimal problems.  Sice at the time of this update the price for an Annie chassis is about the same as for the Standard Line Big Hauler Chassis, you might as well go for the Annie chassis. As noted above, there are no version 6 chassis, available, so all the chassis for sale by Bachmann are Version 5.  Even tho all chassis prices have almost doubled I still recommend chassis replacement as the best option.  I suspect that chassis prices have doubled because stock is finally being drawn down.  Once they are sold out, there will be no replacements, so you might want to get a spare chassis while you still can.  

The third option is to just replace the broken part, motor, gears, or whatever, yourself.  I generally do not recommend this because it is kinda like replacing the motor in a 15 year old car.  You end up with a great motor but all the other things are probably ready to fail anyway.  Also individual parts, especially small parts are hard to find, and pretty costly in their own right.  You can spend hours of research finding a gear paying big bucks, and finding it does not fit. There is also the fumble finger problem, I have been guilty of it myself.  This is when while fixing one thing you break something else.  Don't ask me how I know all this !  If you go this option it may be a good idea to buy a parts locomotive or two. The problem with this method is you can't always be sure the parts locomotive has the same motor and gearbox yours does because their have been 5 different chassis versions. see bottom of this post for chassis identification.

I recently responded to a private message from a forum member who has a Bumble Bee locomotive. He asked if I knew a source to buy just a motor.  I made the following response:::

"Are you absolutely sure the problem is the motor. If not test it by applying power directly to the two leads right at the motor to be sure.  I say this because motor failure is very rare with the 4-6-0, but does occasionally occur.

I do not know of a way to buy just the motor, but you can currently buy a replacement chassis with the latest motor and gears directly from Bachmann for a reasonable price.  It is an exact replacement for your your locomotive right down to the correct colors on the steam chests.  I recommend the complete chassis, because the locomotive in set 90025 has an older more problematic gear box. Replacement of the entire mechanism/chassis will over the long run be the best solution, provided you properly lube it from time to time.  You did not say which locomotive was giving you the problem, the older one or the newer one, but I still think the replacement chassis will be the way to go, since you will get an entirely new latest version 5 complete chassis.

The link to the item in the Bachmann online store is:

http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_69_671_669&products_id=4095  " Since this chassis is now sold out you would have to buy one of the other available chassis and paint the parts needing the orange color.  Or you could go with an Annie chassis with the correct colors in the following link:
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_623&products_id=4079&zenid=7nt7ec3hlsj8trgrg0m1lfkto4

END OF RESPONSE to private message.

TIPS ON BUYING A NEW CHASSIS:
This Bumble Bee Chassis noted above will be an exact match for the locomotive in Big Hauler Sets 90025,90032,90057 and 90058 and have the cab number 177 178 or 179.  The matching Annie upgrade chassis is item number 81088

To find the chassis you want, start by getting the product number of the set you have. say 90024.  Go to the chassis selections in the online store and see if it is available by looking for a chassis with the same number and purchase it.  In many cases the exact colors on the chassis you want are not available or yours is sold out.  All the chassis are the same mechanically with only the colors, pilot(cow catcher), and switches behind the smokebox door different.  You can buy the chassis with confidence knowing that it will fit your cab and boiler perfectly. At most you will have to paint the parts to match the colors on your old chassis.  If the one you get has the old time long pilot, and yours has the short more modern pilot, it is a simple task involving only two screws to use your old pilot on the new chassis.  Be sure to check the switches behind the smokebox door on your locomotive before buying a chassis.  Some early 4-6-0's only had a smoke switch, while later versions have a second switch which allows you to change the polarity.  You can still use the newer chassis and drill out a spot on the front of the smokebox for the second switch, or purchase a new smokebox front with openings for both switches.

TROUBLE SHOOTING SOUND PROBLEMS

If your factory sound is not working, remember the loco must be in motion for the chuff chuff sound to work and there are no bell or whistle sounds.  The first step is to go to the manual and make sure you follow all the steps for turning on the sound.  Be sure you have installed a fresh battery (some new batteries are not great) under the tender hatch and the hatch is firmly closed so the battery is in full contact with the tabs at the bottom of the opening.  Make sure you have inserted the battery correctly(the polarity must be correct). Early versions of Big Hauler Locomotives only have a red on/off switch on the bottom rear of the cab. It must be in the down position(on).  Later versions of the 4-6-0 including the Anniversary 4-6-0 have the same switch on the loco, but also have a second switch on the bottom center of the tender.  This on/off/volume switch must also be on and up to full volume. Turn this switch clockwise to turn it on, keep turning it til it stops to get maximum volume.  Now run the locomotive and you should have sound.  

If you do not have sound, you can troubleshoot as follows.  Starting with the tender, disconnect it from the locomotive and carefully pull the plug(it will say sound)  for the chuff sensor from the locomotive.  Be sure a fresh battery is inserted correctly. Make a thin jumper wire and insert one end in one of the openings in the plug.  Now take the other end of the jumper and touch it into the other end of the plug.  If you hear a chuff sound, the problem is with the locomotive not the tender. If you get no sound check the following: Is the battery really good and inserted properly?  Is the volume switch under the tender really on?  If still no sound then you will have to remove the tender shell and check to see if the metal tabs under the battery compartment are making good contact with the battery.  Gently bend  the tabs up to make better contact with the battery.  Reassemble the shell and repeat the chuff test.  If you still get no sound the problem is with the locomotive or the sound board is defective.  Sound board failure is very rare.  Go to the locomotive and check to be sure  the red sound switch is on. If you still get no sound the problem is with the chuff sensor.  The chuff sensor is nothing more than a trigger for the chuff sound.  It is located on the rear driver and to get to it you must open up the bottom cover on the locomotive.  Before doing this triple check all the other options first!  Once the cover is removed or lifted up at the rear you will see the sensor drum on the rear driver axle. it will have metal bars going across it. You will also see two copper arms which must be in contact  with the drum to activate the sound.  if these arms are not in contact with the drum remove them and carefully bend them down and reinstall the arms.  If they are in good contact reinstall the cover you should get sound.  If after carefully rechecking everything you still get no sound the problem may be a sound board and you will need to replace it.  When you go thru the trouble shooting process do it in the order stated above.  If you have a multi-meter you can and should use it to make sure the 9V battery is good. Never use an old battery without testing it with the meter.  A low cost multi-meter is available from Harbor Freight Stores and even free at times with a coupon and another purchase. It is well worth the low cost.

BIG HAULER 4-6-0 DISASSEMBLY
courtesy of George Sheyer.  Thanks George!!

The Bottom Side

    Prop the engine on two scraps of wood under the cab roof so that it also rests on its smokestack. This prevents the whistle and dynamo exhaust from being damaged.
    The bottom cover comes off with four screws down the center line of the bottom cover. Remove all four screws
    Pry out the pilot support rods from the sides of the smoke box.
    Carefully lift off the bottom cover and place it sideways in front of the cylinder saddle.
    Put the long screw back in the middle of the cylinder saddle so that it helps hold the saddle in place.
    Do your work inside
    Reassemble in the reverse order. Be very careful not to pinch the wires to the lead truck when you reinstall the cover. Also watch for the hook at the rear as it tends to flop to the side and when in that position it makes getting the cover back on difficult.

The Top Side

    Pry the pilot support rods from the sides of the smoke box
    Remove two screws under the cab
    Remove two screws from the sides of the boiler near the lower center of the boiler
    Remove the long screw under the cylinder saddle
    Remove four screws from under the air tanks. The tanks will fall off.
    Carefully lift the shell off. Be careful about the wires to the smoke unit and headlight.
    Do your stuff
    Reassemble in reverse order.

CONCLUSION
I have droned on long enough on this subject, but if you follow this advice, I believe you will end up with very dependable locomotive, providing you properly lube it after each 10 hours of running with plastic compatible lubricants, with special emphasis on the points where the wheel axles enter the chassis.  If your side rods are binding stop your locomotive and find out why to prevent damage. If you need more help, post your questions as a forum item.




CHASSIS IDENTIFICATION:
   
Big Hauler 4-6-0 Chassis Version Identification  by Bill Canelos  Copyright 1995-2020 by Bill Canelos All rights reserved.               
Version 1  1988-1990  Battery Powered R/C Units                              
Version 2  1990-1994  Smooth Bottom Cover  You can turn drivers by hand and motor will turn.                           
Version 3  1994-1998  Smooth Bottom Cover You cannot turn the drivers by hand.                              
Version 4  1998-1999  Large wide hump dead center between the rear drivers on bottom cover.                              
Version 5  2000-Pres  3/8th inch wide hump offset between the rear drivers and a plastic lubrication plug the size of a dime to the rear of the hump.
Version 6  2011-Pres  New Chassis for Annie only, has metal gears and new front truck.  It is identifiable only by the new front truck which is a floating truck rather than the old style which swings in a slot on the chassis.    Note Anniversary 4-6-0's have only Version 5 or 6 Chassis                   
                           

Note that the dates overlap and as of Sep 1, 2019 have not been fixed more precisely, but all new sets introduced in 1999 with the VHS instructions have the version 5 chassis locomotive.                           
                              
All Big Hauler 4-6-0's manufactured after 2000 have the version 5 chassis, all new sets after 2000 have it as well.   
                           
Have a great time running your trains.

Loco Bill   
 
Edit 1-Edited to correct spelling.  I was not aware the message would become a FAQ, so remember the prices are as of this writing and are subject to change, especially the price of the chassis, which is on sale as of September 1 2019.

Edit 2- Adds sound troubleshooting.

Edit 3- Adds disassembly/assembly instructions courtesy of George Scheyer

Edit 4-  Makes various minor corrections updates prices as of Sep 1 2019.  Expands on information about the Version 6 Annie 4-6-0 chassis. Adds info on smokebox switches, and many items have clarifications or new info.  Please contact me if you see something which needs correcting and I will fix it.

Repairs to the Bachmann Standard line Big Hauler 4-6-0, and Anniversary 4-6-0 « on: June 27, 2015, 09:38:03 PM »   Updated May 15 2020 Added changes in chassis prices and other small changes. Also Bachmann online store and repair services and parts store are open for orders Hi Fellow Large Scale Bachmann Forum Friends, Let me start by saying that our beloved Big Hauler(Standard Line) 4-6-0 Locomotive with the latest most reliable Version 5 chassis has been produced for almost 20 years now. This is an amazing run for any model locomotive.  It is and remains a great locomotive.  These Version 5 chassis have been largely trouble free, but if you have one of those bought when they came out in 2000 and run it a lot it is very likely getting long in the tooth and may need repairs due to normal wear and tear.  Wear on the wheels, electric wipers, valve gears and motor along with high heat, rain snow and sleet, are all likely to contribute to a need for repairs. Nothing lasts forever!!   Much of what I say below also applies to the Anniversary (Annie) 4-6-0 as well. All information is Copyright 1990, thru 2020 by Bill Canelos All rights reserved. REPAIR OPTIONS: The first being send it in to the Bachmann service department for repairs after first contacting them to see your options.  If you do this for your Big Hauler 4-6-0 the cost of the repair is currently $110.00(check for current price)  You pay shipping to Bachmann and Bachmann pays shipping back.  In most cases they will install a brand new chassis or at their discretion "may" send you a complete new locomotive, it will have the latest Version 5 chassis.  This is not always the best option if you have installed aftermarket sound or converted your locomotive to radio control and battery power. That is why it is critical to call them first.  If you send in a Version 6 Anniversary 4-6-0 for repair you will get it back with a Version 5 chassis.  Bachmann does not have version 6 replacement parts or chassis at this time. The second option is to replace the entire chassis and running gear by purchasing one from the Bachmann Online Store and and remove and replace your old chassis yourself.  The cost for a complete replacement chassis is currently $69.99 and 79.99(check for current price) plus shipping.  This method is very desirable if your locomotive tender is loaded with sound and radio control goodies and is not stock.   This is also strongly recommended because all the wheels running gear, gear train and motor are all new and completely assembled giving you for all intents and purposes a brand new locomotive from the motor and gearbox down.  This replacement is not very difficult if you take it slow and note how you took it apart.  I usually photograph things as I take them apart, putting the little screws and parts in sandwich bags labeling and numbering them as I as I go. This makes it easier when you put it back together.  An Anniversary 4-6-0 chassis currently sells for $79.95. The Anniversary 4-6-0 chassis with the metal siderods makes for a very nice update to your Big Hauler 4-6-0, and usually goes back together with minimal problems.  Sice at the time of this update the price for an Annie chassis is about the same as for the Standard Line Big Hauler Chassis, you might as well go for the Annie chassis. As noted above, there are no version 6 chassis, available, so all the chassis for sale by Bachmann are Version 5.  Even tho all chassis prices have almost doubled I still recommend chassis replacement as the best option.  I suspect that chassis prices have doubled because stock is finally being drawn down.  Once they are sold out, there will be no replacements, so you might want to get a spare chassis while you still can.   The third option is to just replace the broken part, motor, gears, or whatever, yourself.  I generally do not recommend this because it is kinda like replacing the motor in a 15 year old car.  You end up with a great motor but all the other things are probably ready to fail anyway.  Also individual parts, especially small parts are hard to find, and pretty costly in their own right.  You can spend hours of research finding a gear paying big bucks, and finding it does not fit. There is also the fumble finger problem, I have been guilty of it myself.  This is when while fixing one thing you break something else.  Don't ask me how I know all this !  If you go this option it may be a good idea to buy a parts locomotive or two. The problem with this method is you can't always be sure the parts locomotive has the same motor and gearbox yours does because their have been 5 different chassis versions. see bottom of this post for chassis identification. I recently responded to a private message from a forum member who has a Bumble Bee locomotive. He asked if I knew a source to buy just a motor.  I made the following response::: "Are you absolutely sure the problem is the motor. If not test it by applying power directly to the two leads right at the motor to be sure.  I say this because motor failure is very rare with the 4-6-0, but does occasionally occur. I do not know of a way to buy just the motor, but you can currently buy a replacement chassis with the latest motor and gears directly from Bachmann for a reasonable price.  It is an exact replacement for your your locomotive right down to the correct colors on the steam chests.  I recommend the complete chassis, because the locomotive in set 90025 has an older more problematic gear box. Replacement of the entire mechanism/chassis will over the long run be the best solution, provided you properly lube it from time to time.  You did not say which locomotive was giving you the problem, the older one or the newer one, but I still think the replacement chassis will be the way to go, since you will get an entirely new latest version 5 complete chassis. The link to the item in the Bachmann online store is: http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_69_671_669&products_id=4095  " Since this chassis is now sold out you would have to buy one of the other available chassis and paint the parts needing the orange color.  Or you could go with an Annie chassis with the correct colors in the following link: https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_623&products_id=4079&zenid=7nt7ec3hlsj8trgrg0m1lfkto4 END OF RESPONSE to private message. TIPS ON BUYING A NEW CHASSIS: This Bumble Bee Chassis noted above will be an exact match for the locomotive in Big Hauler Sets 90025,90032,90057 and 90058 and have the cab number 177 178 or 179.  The matching Annie upgrade chassis is item number 81088 To find the chassis you want, start by getting the product number of the set you have. say 90024.  Go to the chassis selections in the online store and see if it is available by looking for a chassis with the same number and purchase it.  In many cases the exact colors on the chassis you want are not available or yours is sold out.  All the chassis are the same mechanically with only the colors, pilot(cow catcher), and switches behind the smokebox door different.  You can buy the chassis with confidence knowing that it will fit your cab and boiler perfectly. At most you will have to paint the parts to match the colors on your old chassis.  If the one you get has the old time long pilot, and yours has the short more modern pilot, it is a simple task involving only two screws to use your old pilot on the new chassis.  Be sure to check the switches behind the smokebox door on your locomotive before buying a chassis.  Some early 4-6-0's only had a smoke switch, while later versions have a second switch which allows you to change the polarity.  You can still use the newer chassis and drill out a spot on the front of the smokebox for the second switch, or purchase a new smokebox front with openings for both switches. TROUBLE SHOOTING SOUND PROBLEMS If your factory sound is not working, remember the loco must be in motion for the chuff chuff sound to work and there are no bell or whistle sounds.  The first step is to go to the manual and make sure you follow all the steps for turning on the sound.  Be sure you have installed a fresh battery (some new batteries are not great) under the tender hatch and the hatch is firmly closed so the battery is in full contact with the tabs at the bottom of the opening.  Make sure you have inserted the battery correctly(the polarity must be correct). Early versions of Big Hauler Locomotives only have a red on/off switch on the bottom rear of the cab. It must be in the down position(on).  Later versions of the 4-6-0 including the Anniversary 4-6-0 have the same switch on the loco, but also have a second switch on the bottom center of the tender.  This on/off/volume switch must also be on and up to full volume. Turn this switch clockwise to turn it on, keep turning it til it stops to get maximum volume.  Now run the locomotive and you should have sound.   If you do not have sound, you can troubleshoot as follows.  Starting with the tender, disconnect it from the locomotive and carefully pull the plug(it will say sound)  for the chuff sensor from the locomotive.  Be sure a fresh battery is inserted correctly. Make a thin jumper wire and insert one end in one of the openings in the plug.  Now take the other end of the jumper and touch it into the other end of the plug.  If you hear a chuff sound, the problem is with the locomotive not the tender. If you get no sound check the following: Is the battery really good and inserted properly?  Is the volume switch under the tender really on?  If still no sound then you will have to remove the tender shell and check to see if the metal tabs under the battery compartment are making good contact with the battery.  Gently bend  the tabs up to make better contact with the battery.  Reassemble the shell and repeat the chuff test.  If you still get no sound the problem is with the locomotive or the sound board is defective.  Sound board failure is very rare.  Go to the locomotive and check to be sure  the red sound switch is on. If you still get no sound the problem is with the chuff sensor.  The chuff sensor is nothing more than a trigger for the chuff sound.  It is located on the rear driver and to get to it you must open up the bottom cover on the locomotive.  Before doing this triple check all the other options first!  Once the cover is removed or lifted up at the rear you will see the sensor drum on the rear driver axle. it will have metal bars going across it. You will also see two copper arms which must be in contact  with the drum to activate the sound.  if these arms are not in contact with the drum remove them and carefully bend them down and reinstall the arms.  If they are in good contact reinstall the cover you should get sound.  If after carefully rechecking everything you still get no sound the problem may be a sound board and you will need to replace it.  When you go thru the trouble shooting process do it in the order stated above.  If you have a multi-meter you can and should use it to make sure the 9V battery is good. Never use an old battery without testing it with the meter.  A low cost multi-meter is available from Harbor Freight Stores and even free at times with a coupon and another purchase. It is well worth the low cost. BIG HAULER 4-6-0 DISASSEMBLY courtesy of George Sheyer.  Thanks George!! The Bottom Side     Prop the engine on two scraps of wood under the cab roof so that it also rests on its smokestack. This prevents the whistle and dynamo exhaust from being damaged.     The bottom cover comes off with four screws down the center line of the bottom cover. Remove all four screws     Pry out the pilot support rods from the sides of the smoke box.     Carefully lift off the bottom cover and place it sideways in front of the cylinder saddle.     Put the long screw back in the middle of the cylinder saddle so that it helps hold the saddle in place.     Do your work inside     Reassemble in the reverse order. Be very careful not to pinch the wires to the lead truck when you reinstall the cover. Also watch for the hook at the rear as it tends to flop to the side and when in that position it makes getting the cover back on difficult. The Top Side     Pry the pilot support rods from the sides of the smoke box     Remove two screws under the cab     Remove two screws from the sides of the boiler near the lower center of the boiler     Remove the long screw under the cylinder saddle     Remove four screws from under the air tanks. The tanks will fall off.     Carefully lift the shell off. Be careful about the wires to the smoke unit and headlight.     Do your stuff     Reassemble in reverse order. CONCLUSION I have droned on long enough on this subject, but if you follow this advice, I believe you will end up with very dependable locomotive, providing you properly lube it after each 10 hours of running with plastic compatible lubricants, with special emphasis on the points where the wheel axles enter the chassis.  If your side rods are binding stop your locomotive and find out why to prevent damage. If you need more help, post your questions as a forum item. CHASSIS IDENTIFICATION:     Big Hauler 4-6-0 Chassis Version Identification  by Bill Canelos  Copyright 1995-2020 by Bill Canelos All rights reserved.                Version 1  1988-1990  Battery Powered R/C Units                               Version 2  1990-1994  Smooth Bottom Cover  You can turn drivers by hand and motor will turn.                            Version 3  1994-1998  Smooth Bottom Cover You cannot turn the drivers by hand.                               Version 4  1998-1999  Large wide hump dead center between the rear drivers on bottom cover.                               Version 5  2000-Pres  3/8th inch wide hump offset between the rear drivers and a plastic lubrication plug the size of a dime to the rear of the hump. Version 6  2011-Pres  New Chassis for Annie only, has metal gears and new front truck.  It is identifiable only by the new front truck which is a floating truck rather than the old style which swings in a slot on the chassis.    Note Anniversary 4-6-0's have only Version 5 or 6 Chassis                                                Note that the dates overlap and as of Sep 1, 2019 have not been fixed more precisely, but all new sets introduced in 1999 with the VHS instructions have the version 5 chassis locomotive.                                                           All Big Hauler 4-6-0's manufactured after 2000 have the version 5 chassis, all new sets after 2000 have it as well.                                Have a great time running your trains. Loco Bill      Edit 1-Edited to correct spelling.  I was not aware the message would become a FAQ, so remember the prices are as of this writing and are subject to change, especially the price of the chassis, which is on sale as of September 1 2019. Edit 2- Adds sound troubleshooting. Edit 3- Adds disassembly/assembly instructions courtesy of George Scheyer Edit 4-  Makes various minor corrections updates prices as of Sep 1 2019.  Expands on information about the Version 6 Annie 4-6-0 chassis. Adds info on smokebox switches, and many items have clarifications or new info.  Please contact me if you see something which needs correcting and I will fix it.

« Last Edit: June 10, 2020, 03:46:01 PM by Loco Bill Canelos » Logged Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman Colorado & Kansas Railway-Missouri Western Railway Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale Colorado RR Museum-Brakeman-Engineer-Motorman-Trainman There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!