Powering your layout

This page is intended to be a general page on different power options.

 

DC

There are several controllers, but start out with the tried and true Railpower 1300.

Below is a stock unit:

 

but you would do best to get the modified one, that has a limit built in to stop at approximately 10 volts, you can buy it from z scale hobo, it was sold by Micro-Trains as MTL-995 

 

 

 

DCC

 

Proprietary systems

Rokuhan  e-Train controller

I'm noting this here because it's an unusual system, some great features some strange ones.

The unit powers the track and can power it as either DC or DCC, kind of nice for people who don't have any DCC or not all converted to DCC.

The unit is a small box, and you need to use a mobile device to control, either an iOS 8.0 or above or Android 5.0 and above.

Strangely, the default mode is a cable between your mobile (now immobile!) device and the controller, and it is plugged into your audio jack. The application sends tones over an audio link to the controller.

You can go wireless by purchasing a 3rd party Bluetooth to audio adapter, so in this case the app sends the audio over bluetooth, and then the bluetooth adapter converts this back to audio and it outputs into the audio jack in the controller.

The app also sends audio of the locomotive to the controller, but at this time, only a steam loco ro a commuter car.  There is an audio output jack if you don't want to use the internal speaker on the controller.

In DC mode you can set acceleration curves, and apparently there are 3 speed curves to select from. Nice additions for DC running.

 

In DCC, you can set the loco address, and the CV's 2,3,4,5 easily along with the CV29 direction bit. There are settings to control lights.

You can set long addresses, a name for the loco and upload a picture. Nice.

Strangely, there is no consisting support.

The Rokuhan turntable is supported in this application, and eventually switch machine control.

Note if your mobile device sleeps, you are disconnected from the system, so you need a keep alive program on your mobile device.

 

 

Searails motive power

 

 

Searails makes some interesting stuff. It's all limited production, so you need to buy it when it is available.

Of particular interest is the very small power unit, called the PowerMax:

 

Pretty impressive power unit, and this year, I hope to get a Docksider from Searails:

 

It will run on my ultra-small layout, which fits on a G scale flat car:

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MT Smoothside Streamliners

 

(remember: links to sub-pages at the bottom of this page)

click to jump to the bottom

 

 
have the baggage, coach, domes and sleeper, need at least a diner and observation

 

Sub-Pages

Click the links below to go "deeper" into details

   

Club & show considerations

Don't lose your rolling stock!

The idea of coloring the bolster pins has been around for a while.

There's only one "official" reference so far, unless we want to "secede from the union": See: http://www.ztrack.com/resources/Bolster_Pin_ID_Colors.pdf

In addition, until I coerce Rob into adding colors:

Don Fedjur has both pins lime/flourescent green
David Lancaster has both pins glow in the dark (sort of whitesh green)

NCE wireless cabs:

I'd suggest assigning numbers to people. In addition, there are some considerations:

00 - cannot use
01 - not possible for wireless
02 - PowerCab only works on this address.
03 - do not use, standard address for NCE USB interface
04 -
05 -
06 -
07 -
08 -
09 -
10 -
11 -

49 - don't use for Cab04 or Cab05 throttles
63 - last possible address
 

 

Z couplers

Micro Trains and formerly Kadee have always made Z-scale cars with both styles of couplers installed.
The boxes which are marked -2 after the car catalogue number indicates the car has Micro Trains Couplers installed.

Märklin has an (ill reputed) decoupler track, but for reliable coupling/de-coupling  you'll have to use Kadee Magne-Matic couplers
and magnets. (901/902 and 921)

If you want to convert MT cars with Marklin couplers to the Kadee type, just buy some KD 905 couplers.
They are ready made (assembled).  All you have to do is remove the Marklin couplers by removing
the trucks and lifting out the M  coupler, then drill and tap a hole (pre located) and screw on the 905, and
reinstall the trucks.  It takes about 20-30 minutes after the first one.
 

On Märklin truck mounted couplers you can use the MT 902 short shank couplers.  On body mount couplers the 901 medium
shank might be better for tight curves.

The short shank conversion makes a noticeable difference in the distance between cars and locomotives.

902's have been used successfully on the 0-6-0 tank loco, on streamline passenger cars, on the US steam engine tenders and on Märklin USA cupola cabooses.
 

Marklin couplers:

 

More Articles …

  1. Figure 8 test track
  2. Z scale layout on a Flat Car
  3. 2-8-0 Mikado - AZL
  4. SD-70 - AZL

Subcategories

Z Rolling Stock

Z Track

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