TimeSaver Switching Layout

Overview:

This page gives some history about:

• the classic switching puzzle itself
• a project to construction of a small, light, inexpenive, portable configuration
• SDGRS presenting a larger version for the annual Boy Scouts meeting in San Diego.

History / What is the Timesaver?

This page is about the classic switching puzzle invented by John Allen, the famous model railroad pioneer.

The track plan is simple, but has been enjoyed by many people since it's introduction by John in 1972. The lengths of track and arrangement of switches have been designed to make you have to think about how you move the cars.

Below is the track plan from John's article in the November, 1972 Model Railroader:

 

He built 2 identical modules which could be hooked together by the track goin off the top center. (This was sort of an "interchange" point for 2 people running one each of the layouts)

 

Below is one of the 2 original modules, in the San Diego Model Railroad Museum:

 

One goal was to make a design that others could assemble from readily available sectional track.

In October 1976, Russ Cain presented a design that could be made with Atlas "snap track", which was something the common man could buy:

 While it lacks the hand-laid Wye switches, it captures the operational "sense", and this is the "schematic" I have followed.

Operation:

In the pictures below, the locomotive is the orange box starting in the "middle".

The goal is to put the cars in the starting order below, and then use the least moves and time to get to the "ending" locations"

Starting locations:	Ending locations:

 

Here is an excellent article explaining the history: http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/sw-timesaver.html

Here's a link to the original rules for the puzzle: http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/Timesaver/timesaver-rules.html

Portable construction: (G scale)

Goals were:

 

• small enough to fit in back seat or trunk of any car
• light
• easy to set up
• inexpensive
• made from readily-available commercial components

Track Plan:

Again, working only from LGB stock pieces (although one straight needs to be trimmed shorter), I came up with this track plan:

 

Platform:

At this point I was confident I could build the layout with stock LGB parts, and get it to 8 foot by 2 feet.

I started looking for a lightweight folding table, 2 foot by 8 foot, that weighs only 20 pounds as opposed to the 55 pounds you get from the common folding tables from Costco, etc.

It turns out that a "regulation" "beer pong" table is exactly these dimensions and folds in 4 sections, to 2' x 2' by about 9".

Refining the track plan:

I was pretty happy with this, but I wanted to make this as quick and easy as possible, so by moving things around a bit, I managed to align most of the track joints with the joints in the table: (the grid is 1 foot squares)

 

Track parts needed:

• 3 pieces LGB 12150 left hand switch
• 2 piece LGB 12050 right hand switch
• 1 piece LGB 11000 curved track
• 4 pieces LGB xxx straight (24") track
• 1 pieces LGB 10000 straight (12") track
• 2 pieces LBG 10150 straight (6") track

 

Power:

A small power supply will be installed with reduced voltage for slow speed, and a left-off-right toggle switch for speed and direction to make it simple. The original HO version was set so the loco traveled at 7 scale miles per hour.

Couplers:

Kadees will be mounted for automatic remote uncoupling with magnets placed at appropriate locations

Progress pictures:

So I started laying out track, to find a way to use stock LGB sizes and follow the "siding lengths" that make the puzzle work. I used RR-Track and just laying things out on the table.

Here's an initial mockup:

 

Below I was trying to match some of the "simplified" renditions of the puzzle, again tweaked to work around the lack of a WYE switch:

 

Below is the final design, with the siding lengths correct. The goal was also to make gaps align with the center 2 sections The goal is to permanently fix the track in the center 2 sections (which fold to the outside of the table) and have rail clamps to connect when assembled.

 

"Folding" the track:

To meet the minimal setup criteria, it makes sense to fix as much track in place as possible. When the table folds, it the center 2 sections (2 and 3) are exposed on the outside, so I have focused on how to do this.

Clearly the track needs to come apart at the joints, so as mentioned earlier, I worked with the design to make as many of the track joints exactly align with the table sections.

Below is a picture of the joint between sections 1 and 2 (numbered from the left). The 2 tracks to the left of the joint will be slipped on after opening, and the joints line up perfectly with the track.

Below is a picture of the joint between sections 2 & 3. Again things line up perfectly. The top track ends, but optionally another track could be slid on. The bottom 2 tracks will have removable rail clamps, probably a different design that is easier to put on and off.

The picture below shows the last joint set, between sections 3 & 4, and the top track can use clamps, but the bottom switch needs to be removed for transport, thus the clamps on the switch itself:

So, I will next add wheel stops to the ends of the tracks (from Ozark Miniatures), and easy to attach rail clamps from Train-Li (the mockup has Split Jaw, but they are too tough to put on for many people.

Deployment pictures:

Folded up: (track is on both sides:

There are 4 sections, and 2 latches that hold the unit together. Unlatch and spread:

Again notice that there is track on the 2 outer sides when folded. Below is a shot of the other side:

These 2 inner plain panels are now opened, notice that there is space inside for track and parts:

Take the track parts out and unfold completely and the 3 sets of legs swing out:

Now just tilt it up on it's legs, you see the 2 sections with track.

Now slide on the other pieces that were stored inside:

Tighten the joiners on the section that carries the switch and away you go!

Just got done clearing out a strange problem. I recently modified the "WYE" that comes from the mainline to the switchyard. I had not re-instated the autoreverser for a while (because I left it's case open to rain, and blew it up).

So a few weeks ago I connected the autoreverser and it did not work... hmm... turns out that I had 3 feeders unlabelled, and the one I thought was the switchyard was not. OK, now all labelled... Now it sort of works but usually the loco stops, the autoreverser indicated a short, and then after 2 seconds (internal timer) cleared and resumed... weird.

So today was the day to figure it out. Changed the trip current on the autoreverser, but that did not seem to make much sense, because it is supposed to reverse lightning fast, and also has a circuit breaker, so it was by appearances tripping the breaker, but after reset it was reversed.

Hmm.... I noticed only one "leg" of the WYE was having this issue, the other leg was fine. This leg is going through a crossing, which should not have made any difference, but then a small light went on in the tiny brain, maybe the detection of the "need for autoreversing" was being detected as a short. The gears were turning but in the background.

OK, let's test the autoreverser. By leaving a meter in the rails, I can see when power is there, i.e. also a short will show zero volts. My autoreverser has the optional audible alert to hear when there is a short, vs. autoreverse.

So, I started shorting one rail on one side of the insulating joints to the other. Wait a minute, a lot of these rails in the crossing don't seem to have any effect. Get the meter, NO VOLTAGE on all the internal rails that form the "diamond"... hmm.... ok, pull the crossing and look. There are NO jumpers inside, only the outside "entry" rails have power.

So, thinking about how the autoreverser might work, if I was to program the code (it is microprocessor driven), I would look for both rails being connected backwards at pretty much the same time.... hmm... if you only "reversed" one rail, maybe that would be interpreted as a short, not the need for autoreversing, since the other rail is dead through the crossing.

Took up the crossing, and made power jumpers (with split jaw clamps) to all 4 internal rails, back in place, works flawlessly, not the smallest hiccup when autoreversing.

So something learned about how this autoreverser "thinks" and something learned about how cheap Aristo was when they made this crossing, no short wheelbase loco would make it across, skates or not.

been a good day, lighting up a cigar...

Greg

A portable, lightweight layout

 A portable, lightweight layout

As part of rejuvenating our garden railroad club ( www.sdgrs.com ) I have wanted to make a modular oval, preferably double track, that could be EASILY transported to our monthly open houses.

Requirements:

1. light
2. sections small enough to fit in small trunks or back seats
3. 10 foot diameter on outer track

Clearly the modules need to be about 4' or less long, which means breaking the "ends" into 3 or 4 modules.

Probably use Split Jaw connectors

I've been thinking of using 2" thick foam with luan plywood on at least 3 sides, and end plates of maybe 1/2" ply with locating pins.

Legs could be done like our Z scale, with adjustable screw feet in 2 x 2 inch wood legs and only one pair of legs at each module "joint" - saves the number of legs and overall weight.

I'll be sure to document it.

I'll lay out the ovals with 10' diameter on the outer, and get clearance for 1:20.3 locos on both the outer and the inner.

Then I'll draw out what I need and see the size of the corners, as pentagons. If the size looks manageable, then I'll make up a couple of straight sections.

I'm thinking now 2" foam, skinned on 4 sides with very thin luan plywood glued to the foam. The "end plates" will probably be 1/2" plywood, with some kind of locating pins to align them.

If this works well, a single clamp will hold the modules together

I like the idea of the 1-1/4" conduit for legs.

I think I have a start... now to research the numerous threads on clearances on curves with 1:20.3... I guess a Bachmann K-27 is the worst case test?

G scale Sectional Track or how I learned to stop worrying and love the bomb.

It is indeed that crazy! (reference the Stanly Kubrick movie)

Initially LGB, the pioneer, came up with a system that used "R" numbers for sectional track. It was never great, parallel track spacing would not always work for longer cars, some "R" numbers were missing (the almost vaporware R4), etc.

Then other companies picked up the nomenclature, but used different numbers.

Below is a "lookup" table to help you decode what "R" number from what manufacturer is, it is a real mess.

Note, the numbers below are APPROXIMATE, not exact, there is variation between manufacturers. Check the exact numbers on the manufacturer's site.

Pick your R number

Given an "R" number AND a manufacturer, what is the radius/diameter

Pick your diameter/radius

Given a target diameter/radius, who makes what and what is it called:

Link to Piko track planning guide:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1960/4221/files/99350_G-Track_Flyer.pdf?9757276037842777937

Link to LGB track planning guide:

https://www.lgb.com/fileadmin/media/lgb/produkte/produktinformationen/LGB_Gleissystem-Info.pdf

Notes:

• There is no R4 curved track from LGB
• There is no even numbered curved tracks from Piko

What a mess huh?